I got 6 car freezers for camping/boondocking and this is my 5th brand being reviewed.PROS- Very large capacity-- Two sections (Freezer and chiller)- Surprisingly fast freezing (Fast-Cool feature)-- After just 30 minutes, freezer section went from 73F to 23F, and the chiller was at 50F-- After 50 mins, freezer was 2F, and chiller 37F-- Note: Refrigerant R134a with mass charge of 40g (+/- 0.5g) is used--- According to a thermal engineering website, R134a is a "non-flammable gas used primarily as a ‘high-temperature' refrigerant for U.S. refrigeration and [car ACs]… [It] is non-toxic, non-flammable and non-corrosive."- Adjustable temperature: -40F to 104F (-40C to 40C)-- Allows use as either a fridge OR freezer (with a fridge section — Warning: COULD freeze items in there overnight if the temperature is set too cold)- 2 Energy modes: Max and Eco (more on that later)- Temperature was roughly consistent during 3 days of continuous use. It was set at 40F, and spot checking -- throughout the day resulted in:-- Freezer: Between 36F and 42F (in Max mode)--- Max mode causes smaller fluctuations than Eco--- Fast-Cool feature works in both modes-- Chiller: Around 50F-- Appears to have good insulation-- Understanding how a standard refrigerator works will educate you how this car freezer similarly operates. See the TIPS section for more details- Two (2) Power options-- 12V or 24V car adapter (draws about 3-5A on 12V)-- 100-240V AC wall plug-- Cables for both included-- Auto resume: When power supply is cut off and later restored, appliance continues operation- Low energy usage-- Euhomy only uses power to reach or maintain set temperature--- The colder the set temperature, the more energy will be used-- 47W with AC port of the Jackery Explorer 1000 (7W of that is used by Jackery's inverter)-- 38W with 12V DC car port on the Jackery-- 1W – 3W on idle- Three (3) levels of Battery protection: High (Default), Medium, Low -- More on that later- Built-in LED over chiller section to help see in the dark- Bluetooth function to let "Alpicool Car Fridge Freezer" smartphone app (Android/Apple iOS) to monitor/control the unit remotely- Usable during off-roading-- Works at up to 30 degree angle tilt-- Anti-shake design keeps compressor protected- Removable wire basket to easily load/unload content from freezer section-- Removable divider for additional organization- Sturdy carry handles on both ends-- Can secure Euhomy to car with straps, making it ideal for off-roading- Can be used while the car is turned off, if its car port has a bypass to work directly off the battery-- Many SUVs, trucks, and minivans today have such output at the back. Refer to the car's owner manual- Overload protection with a replaceable 15A fuse- Protective carry bag is available but NOT includedCONS- Compressor a bit loud (once temp is reached, it shuts off and it's nice and quiet)- Like other car freezers in this Euhomy's price range, requires manual defrosting-- To defrost and remove excess ice, power off the unit and wipe dry, then power back on--- Do not allow a large amount of frost to build up on the inside of the walls as that will make cooling less efficient- No drain hole at the bottom to let excess or spilled liquid out-- You will have to use a towel to pick up leftover liquid, especially after defrosting- Could be heavy for some, especially if the inside is completely full-- No wheels to transport with-- No wheel kit available. Use a two-wheel cart to transport as needed--- Do NOT mess up your back as that will haunt you for the rest of your life!- May be too large for some cars- Where power cord is plugged in at the back, the plastic flexes a bit-- Makes me worry about whether it would crack over time with too much force. So, plug in carefully!- Not waterproof. Keep it out of the rain- No built-in cup holder on the lid- Cannot be directly powered by Solar panels via MC4 or Anderson interfaces to make it a solar-powered freezerTIPS- When you receive your car freezer, do NOT plug it in until it has stood upright for at least 10 hours to allow the refrigerant to settle- Internal temperature is displayed on the LCD at power-on and updates periodically- Power off/on by holding the "ON/OFF" button for a few seconds- There is no built-in battery-- Requires a power station, 12V/24V DC/car port, 120V/220V AC, or solar panel(s) capable of providing at least 60W of sustained powerMAINTENANCE- Ensure lid seal is clean and unobstructed to keep cold air from escaping- Clean inside with a damp cloth every week-- Use sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) dissolved in lukewarm water to clean anything dirty-- Allow inside to dry before closing lid and putting away- Do not use detergent, soap, or abrasive/sharp products- Never clean under running water- Do NOT store the unit on its side. Always keep it upright to prevent damage to the compressorBASIC SETTINGSMAX/ECO MODES“Settings” button cycles through Max/Eco modes.- “Eco” uses less power (runs compressor at lower speed) than “Max” to minimize draw on any connected battery, but can ruin the compressor in the long run- “Max” runs compressor at full powerBATTERY VOLTAGE PROTECTIONThere are 3 levels of protection: High, Medium (Default), and Low. TO SET: When powered on, hold the Settings button for 3 seconds. Cycle between L/M/H with the Settings button- The car freezer will operate until the battery reaches a specific voltage level. Not setting the appropriate level could potentially leave you stranded with a car that will not start-- Compressor stops when 12V battery reaches 10.2V (Low), 10.7V (Medium), 11.7V (High)-- Resumes at 11.2V (Low), 11.7V (Medium), 12.7V (High)- When connected to a battery power station: Use Medium or Low- When connected to a car: Use High or MediumADVANCED SETTINGS (PROGRAMMING)To enter programming mode: Turn off the unit, but keep it plugged in to a power source. Hold the “Settings” button for 3 seconds until “E1” displays. Cycle through the options by pushing “Settings”, and change values up or down with the respective “+” or “-” buttons. To accept the setting, leave the screen blinking until it stops after a few seconds. The various program options can also be changed with the Bluetooth-connected app.Here are the various options that can be programmed. They should not be modified as they could cause your freezer to fail or be damaged.PROGRAM AT YOUR OWN RISK!- E1: Lowest temperature that freezer can be set to cool down to. -40C/-40F to Target temp. Default: -20C (-4F)-- Caution: setting the value too low may damage the compressor- E2: Highest temperature that freezer is allowed to reach. Target temp to 40C/104F. Default: 20C (68F)- E3*: Difference from target temperature before powering up compressor again. 1C/1.8F to 10C/18F. Default: 2C (4F)-- Compressor should stop at target temperature (ie. 4C), and start again when internal temperature is E3’s value above it (ie. 4C + 2C = 6C)- E4: Time delay protection. 0-10 mins. Default: 0 min-- To protect the compressor, it will wait that amount of time after being idle/powered off before turning on again- E5: Temperature unit display. C or F. Default: F- E6*: Do not modify. Temperature compensation (for temp set to above -6C/21.2F). -10C/-18F to 10C/18F. Default: 0C (0F)-- Displayed temperature = Detected temperature + Temperature compensation--- Used to match Displayed temperature to what is actually Detected inside the unit- E7*: Do not modify. Temperature compensation (for temp set to between -12C/10.4F and -6C/21.2F). -10C/-18F to 10C/18F. Default: 0C (0F)- E8*: Do not modify. Temperature compensation (for temp set to below -12C/10.4F). -10C/-18F to 10C/18F. Default: 0C (0F)- E9*: Do not modify. Temperature compensation “shutdown”. -10C/-18F to 0C/0F. Default: 0C (0F)-- App refers to this as “TC: Shutdown”. I have no idea what it is for. Perhaps to shut down the compressor when a specific, differential value is met?* Each difference of 1C is 1.8FTEMPERATURE COMPENSATIONIf you find the temperature displayed on the control panel is different than what is actually inside, the discrepancy can result in content overcooling or being too warm. For instance, if you meant to keep fruit cool at a set 40F, but the true temp inside is 32F, you will unintentionally have FROZEN fruit. Or, if you wanted to keep meats frozen at 29F, but the true temp inside is 36F, you may find the content having melted.The displayed temperature should be roughly the same (by about 4F by default) as the actual one inside because the compressor will ONLY stop cooling when the display (not the storage’s true temp) matches the set degrees.If you find the temperature displayed on the control panel is different than what is actually inside, the discrepancy can result in content overcooling or being too warm.To correct the discrepancy between the set/displayed temperature and what the internal storage really is, place two, reliable thermometers inside and perform tests with temps set to 0C, -9C, and -20C (one for each of the E6 – E8 ranges). I found the calibration easier to start with the warmer values first. If, for example, the display is 8C, 4C, and 1C higher (for each range) than what is inside, set the temperature compensations to: E6 = -8C, E7 = -4C, and E8 = -1C.RESET SETTINGSIf you find yourself having screwed up the E1-E8 settings, you can reset them to factory defaults.- Enter Programming Mode- From the “E1” screen, hold “+” and “-” buttons together until “888” displays- Note: Factory reset defaults to the following:-- E5 to C (instead of Euhomy’s F)-- E8 to -3C/-5F instead of 0C/0FERROR CODESIf an error occurs, one of the following codes will display on the LCD:- F1: Low power protection activated-- Solution: Change H3 (High) to H2 or H1 (Medium or Low)- F2: Fan overloaded-- Solution: Turn unit off for 30 minutes to let cool- F3: Compressor overloaded-- Solution: Turn unit off for 30 minutes to let cool- F5: Compressor controller module overloaded-- Solution: Turn unit off for 30 minutes and let cool in a ventilated place- F7/F8: Temperature sensor error-- Solution: Turn unit off and back onCONCLUSIONOverall, I am quite happy with this car refrigerator/freezer that was able to reach freezing temperatures in less than an hour. Should there be any power failures, I would happily be able to tell my wife that we have a reliable refrigerator available for any necessary medication or baby milk with the capability to run for days, weeks, perhaps even months.